Regarded as Vietnam's most significant Buddhist site, the Perfume Pagoda is the biggest shrine carved into the rock face of the Huong Tich Mountains. In spring the tracks to the shrines are filled with thousands of pilgrims on their way to pray to the goddess of compassion and mercy: Quan Am.
You can get to the site by taking a ferry along theYen River; it's a 4 km journey with spectacular views of farmers at work in the valley. A very steep flight of stairs takes you up to the extraordinary cavern, where gold Buddhas sit in alcoves dug out of the rock. The air is hazy from the burning incense and the cooking fires lit by the Buddhist monks who look after the shrines.
Early spring may not be the best time to go, as thousands of Buddhists make their annual pilgrimage to the Pagoda. This is a very busy time, as crowds of Vietnamese make their journey up the Yen River and cram the precarious stairway making it quite difficult for the uninitiated. But if you're determined enough, the atmosphere in itself can make it worth your while; as thousands of Buddhists crowd into the cavern to leave their offerings and pay their respects.
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